Friday, November 05, 2004
Nov 5 2004 - what a difference a day makes
Went down to Manresa this morning. Much smaller waves. Looked almost like lake Pacific except intermittent waist high set waves would come in and break close to the beach. Decided to leave, but then I saw the same guy from Wed am coming into the lot as I was leaving. He (I later found out his name is Rob) convinced me to have a go at it; said the waves were actually bigger than they looked from the lot. He had 7'6" and a 9'6" boards, I had my new 6'6" Vernor. He took the longboard and I took what I brought with me.
As I walked into the water a nice five wave set came through, looking almost head high and with few shoulders. I waited it out in the waist high water and then quickly paddled out to where I thought the peak was. The wind was offshore, but from the SouthEast, so the water had a little sideways bump to it. The tide was 4 foot and low and would stay in that range through most of the day.
I paddled for my first wave, a three footer, and caught a nice little warmup ride. As the morning
progressed the bump got worse and a few sets came in. I caught a nice right that allowed me to to a non-slashing turn off the lip and a few bottom turns. The rest of the session was waiting for sets, duckdiving when the sets broke outside top to bottom, and trying to scratch out a few short rides here and there. The wind shifted and the water got glassy after about 30 minutes of bump. By this point it was near the two hour mark for the session and my arms were already tired from yesterday at the Lane, so I called it quits as the swell dwindled.
As I walked into the water a nice five wave set came through, looking almost head high and with few shoulders. I waited it out in the waist high water and then quickly paddled out to where I thought the peak was. The wind was offshore, but from the SouthEast, so the water had a little sideways bump to it. The tide was 4 foot and low and would stay in that range through most of the day.
I paddled for my first wave, a three footer, and caught a nice little warmup ride. As the morning
progressed the bump got worse and a few sets came in. I caught a nice right that allowed me to to a non-slashing turn off the lip and a few bottom turns. The rest of the session was waiting for sets, duckdiving when the sets broke outside top to bottom, and trying to scratch out a few short rides here and there. The wind shifted and the water got glassy after about 30 minutes of bump. By this point it was near the two hour mark for the session and my arms were already tired from yesterday at the Lane, so I called it quits as the swell dwindled.
